I haven't had much free time to update this manual for the Rev 4. Actually, the PDF attachment to this Article is the Rev 1 manual with strikeout edits to take out what no longer applied to the Rev 2 and Rev 3! I never updated the manual for that version either....
However, here is the updated information that is specific to the Rev 3, with some notes about the dimmable driver boards.
NOTE: THIS MANUAL ONLY PARTIALLY APPLIES TO THE CURRENT VERSION (Rev 4)
Rev 3 Specific Notes:
The threaded adapters go into the appropriate drain holes.
There are two 12" sections of pipe included, cut these to fit as
Cut 1.25" pipe so that side drain is near the surface of
operating water level. I usually do this above the water surface so that if for
some reason it is running a lot, you hear it.
Cut the 1.5" pipe such that
you can position the valve so that it drains out right below the water level, up
to about 1-1.5" below the surface. Alternatively, you can just submerge one end
of the valve.
Applicable for the Single-Union Ball Valve only: The drain valve has no metal parts and is fully
submersible. Tightening the valve nut will "lock" the valve in position, so
"tune" the drain flow as desired, then tighten the nut a bit. To adjust, loosen
the nut until the valve moves easily, then re-tighten.
If bubbles coming
out of the scrubber are an issue, use the included filter sock and 2 zip ties.
Connect the 2 zip ties together to make a larger one - run them through the
filter sock handle first, and then "hang" this from the handle of the ball
valve. Tighten the zip-ties until the top of the filter sock is at or just
below the sump water level. You don't need all of the water to run through the
sock, you are just using the sock to force bubbles to the surface.
on bubbles - these will be less of an issue as the screen matures. Unit noise
will also fade as the screen matures (related to bubbles).
supply & slot pipe
The water supply/inlet can be performed
a few different ways, using the included parts:
You can screw the
thread-to-barb elbow directly into the threaded hole and then attach the vinyl
hose to that, or you can use the double-threaded adapter, with the union screwed
onto that, and the elbow screwed into the union. Either way, you want to screw
in the adapter so that you have right around 1/4" of the threading exposed
inside the box. You will not need to adjust this during cleaning (you will
likely never adjust this part again)
The screen (if you haven't found it)
is packed in front of one of the light fixtures. Remove the light blockers,
insert the screen into the slot, and rotate the rings so the "gap" is on
Next, insert the slot pipe into the box, seat one end on the
threaded adapter you already installed, and lower into place (the thumbscrews
will cradle the pipe. Now, screw the gray plug (gray cap with the threaded
fitting) into the other hole. Hold the slot pipe with the screen vertical and
tighten the gray plug. To remove the pipe, unscrew the gray plug until you can
slide the slot pipe assembly slightly, then lift it out.
With the slot
pipe secured, start the water flow and verify that there is no water spraying or
dripping out of the ends of the pipe. Tighten the gray plug if necessary. The
o-rings inside the ends of the slot pipe should seal up the assembly. Extra
o-rings are included with your scrubber, should you lose one. Install the
light/spray blockers, and rotate so that they are not diverting the flow. Place
the lid on the unit.
It's pretty straight
For the L2, connect the power supply to the fixture with the 2-port connectors,
connect the 2 fixtures together with the 4-port connector, and off you go.
For the L4, connect one power supply to each fixture, and plug in the power supplies.
The following section is specific to the Rev 2 and Rev 3 models with the v1 LED boards (which contains jumper terminals between the pairs of LEDs)
The v1 LED boards have jumpers
between each LED pair, which allows you to increase the intensity once you have
a base of growth. The jumpers come pre-configured in the "low" intensity
setting (meaning, all LEDs are in "parallel" - which splits the current between
the 2 LEDs of each pair).
DO NOT CONFIGURE JUMPERS WITH POWER APPLIED TO
THE LEDs. Doing so will void the warranty on the LED boards (because you will
blow out all of the reds, instantly)
The Blue pair should always remain
in Parallel - do not change the blue jumper position on any of the boards (this
is the centermost jumper block)
Each red pair can be set to 'high'
intensity by removing the pair of jumpers and plugging one jumper across the
middle set of pins between each pair.
To change the jumper settings,
unplug the driver from the wall and let the fixture sit for 30 seconds, then
unplug the driver from the fixture. Remove one end cap of the MakersLED heat
sink by removing the 4 screws, and remove the acrylic splashguard. Configure
the jumpers as desired, then re-assemble the fixture.
The following section is specific to the Rev 4, or to a handful of Rev 3 models I sold that contained the driver board (these can be identified by the presence of a dimming knob on the back of the heat sink)
potentiometers on the driver board (called SMD, or Surface Mounted Device,
potentiometers) are pre-configured with the reds at 100% and violets at
On the back of each fixture, there is an external dimming knob
(potentiometer). This will dim all the LEDs in unison, in proportion to the
setting of the SMD potentiometer. So with the default setting, if you turn the
external knob to 50%, the reds will be at 50% and violets at 25%. The dimming
knob should be set at 50% or less initially. This can stay at that level for
quite a long time, for some, indefinitely.
An important note: the
external dimming knob is a specific type called an Audio Taper
Potentiometer, which allows for very linear operation, but it works
OPPOSITE of what you would expect. Turn all the way
left (counterclockwise) to obtain maximum intensity, turn the knob all
the way right (clockwise) to obtain minimum intensity (about 10%). The
knob is removable, but is shipped such that the 12 o-clock position is 100%.
With this reference point, 10% is at about the 11 o-clock position, so 50%
should be near the 5 o-clock position.
As for the number of hours/day to
run the LEDs, in the past, my recommendation has been 9 hours/day max at first.
However, with the dimming knob function, you may be able to further reduce the
intensity to a level where you can run for longer hours (18, 20, 22, or more)
without causing "photosaturation" - which is when you have no algae growth, and
way too much light. Write down your intensity and duration settings and then note the
resulting growth a few times a week, and take pics if you want. You can text
pictures to me at (my cell phone number is on the invoice that came with your scrubber) if that is more convenient than e-mailing them.
I will provide feedback and you will be helping me establish useful
I would recommend initially setting the dimming knob in about
the 6 or 7 o'clock position, and running the LEDs for 12 to 14
hours/day for the first week. For the second week, 6 o'clock position, 14
hours/day. By that time, you should need to do your first cleaning, which is
just a swipe of your palm across the screen, and a very light rinse with slow
running, room temperature tap water (or, just pour a cup of tank water over the
screen after the palm-swipe). Then, continue with the 6 o'clock / 14 hrs/day
for another week. Depending on growth, you may be able to increase intensity a
bit. As I get some feedback on these recommendations, they may